A surfer and a wedding party present contrasting images in Neve Tzedek, a quiet corner of the city. (Rina Castelnuovo for The New York Times) THERE'S room for everyone in Tel Aviv. I'm riding bikes along the beach with my friend James. James is 12, and moved to Tel Aviv from New York with his Israeli mother two years ago. "That's the separated beach," James tells me matter-of-factly, pointing at a group of some 30 Orthodox men on the edge of a placid, gorgeous Mediterranean not far from the Hilton. I read a sign that states: "The Separated Beach. Bathing days for women: Sun, Tues, Thurs. Bathing days for men: Mon, Wed, Fri." Then, pointing at a different group of men just 50 yards down the sand, James adds, "And that's the gay beach." A couple of hours later, eager to see what other strange bedfellows I'll find huddled on the...
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