Earlier this year, the New York Times listed its "top" places to visit in 2008. Laos came in at number 1. As one group of New Yorkers told me in Luang Prabang, "That is why we are here." These designations can change a place forever. But happily, change in Laos comes slowly. Parts of Laos have transformed since I was last there in 1997. The once dusty capital, Vientiane, dons new interlocking brick sidewalks, wifi cafes and groomed public parks. The town of Vang Vieng, known for its beautiful jagged limestone hills, caves loaded with Buddha figures and tranquil waterways, was dead quiet when I visited then. Since, it has apparently become a backpackers' haven - and is even now trying to reverse that and attract a more well-heeled visitor. Luang Prabang's picturesque main street alternates between cafes and restaurants, silk...
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