This is the real experience, my friend,” said Robert, lighting up a harsh Cohiba cigarette as I looked around. We were in a hole-in-the-wall bar around the corner from Plaza Hotel and Robert, who worked as a doorman there, had appointed himself my guide for the morning. It had been years since I’d had a drink before noon, but two mojitos sat on a rickety table in front of us. As soon as I started to stir the sugar at the bottom of the tall glass, Robert got down to business. “I have a cousin who works in a cigar factory,” he said. “I won’t lie to you. If I can get you to buy through him, I’ll be able to buy more food for my wife and baby.” And more mojitos, I told myself. We finally decided on a price of 80 CUC—the Cuban Convertible Peso that only foreigners can use and which amounts to around Rs4,000 now—for a box of... [read full story]
