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He was one of the 20th century's greatest artists, whose hypnotic paintings grew darker and darker. Jonathan Jones travels to Texas to take in Mark Rothko's final, misunderstood masterpiece - a haunting chapel the artist never lived to see 'Can you see it?" says the man in the Hawaiian shirt, pointing up at the purple canvas towering over us. "I've never been here before," he says, his shirt standing out wildly... [read full story]

